Emily Warren: A Guide to Royal Eating in Late Heian Times, the Chūjiruiki

What did Heian elites eat? The Chūjiruiki, or “Records Concerning the Palace Kitchens,” a late Heian Period text, answers this question, as well as posing many more topics for consideration. This collection details the utensils, furnishing, and courses that officials would organize for the tennō’s mealtime. The tennō dined twice a day, in the morning (asagarei gozen) and in the afternoon (hiru gozen). Neither meal was a simple affair. In the afternoon, the tennō enjoyed seven courses, each one carefully cooked and plated.  The orchestration of his two daily meals, never mind banquets, must have been complicated affairs for those preparing the tableware and food. The Chūjiruiki gives us an idea of the complex web of responsibilities. The three most important offices handling the tennō’s meals were the Royal Meal Office (Naizenshi), the Palace Kitchen Office (Mizushidokoro), and the Grains Procurement Office (Ōiryō). This presentation explores the responsibilities of the various food-related offices, as well as presenting key responsibilities described in the text. 

平安時代の公家は何を食べのか。平安時末期の「厨事類記」を通じて、天皇と親王が食べる食事、使用の道具、食器選択はもとより料理の簡単な作り方などが伝えられている資料である。この資料は、宮廷の生活がみられて、食事の置き方、食卓の絵図もついている。天皇は(貴族も)一日に食事を2回食べた。昼食は「朝御膳」(午前10時ごろ)と呼ばれて、二回目の夕食は「昼御膳」と言う。両方は簡単なことではなく、7品の「御盤」というばん、つまり、おぼんの上に器がいくつも置いてあったかとみられる。「厨事類記」をみると、この7品の食事を作る任務がわかるようになり、食事の官僚制度には四つの部分があったと考えられる。料理の担当者は内膳司、それに支えた部署は、御厨子所、進物所、大炊寮の役割が「厨事類記」でみられる。此のは発表は、「厨事類記」が示す任務、部署、宴会、食事を紹介する。